Below are selection of endeavours from my six months in America del Sur, 2014. I spent two months in Peru, a month in Ecuador, two more in Colombia and the last spread between Northern Chile and Bolivia. All of these missions were awesome in their own right, and if you are heading to this magnificent continent I would definitely recommend a pair of sneakers!

Cusco Cerro 1

Three days into my exposure to the Cusco altitude (3400m) I decided to give the nearest hill I could spot a crack. This was a prominent hill that I had previously lined up during a 6am saunter home from town.

I ran up towards Sacksaywaman, and at the pay station continued on straight through to the road. I cut lots of corners and kept asking locals where the “Balcon del Diablo” was (this being a popular stream into the ground that I would visit on return). I cut the several villages on steep dirt paths before descending into a valley with a river and the path to the balcon. It never ceases to amaze me how much an old Peruvian lady is able to carry miles into the hills on her back…and daily! From here it was a beeline to the radio tower to the top. There was one ravine to cross en route to the top, but this only offered a short break – was a man on a mission today.

My one major obstacle on the way up (and as it turned out, on the way down also) were dogs. Even at altitude running uphill these dogs (guarding sheep for a gaucho) managed to force me up to my 100m pace. My heart went through the roof. I think that avoidance must be the best measure with there perros or simply heading away from their treasure when chased, and doing it quickly. I took a slightly off route to the summit up a very tussocky hillside. Did enjoy some nuts with a great view over Cusco. (If venturing in this area, you should aim for the saddle to the left of the steepest section – there is a path here. )

(peak shot)

I summited in about 1.40. At the top the altitude was approx 4350m with grand views both towards and away from Cusco. I was embarrassed from standing on a mound (that I later realised to be a grave) so didn’t go and visit a few gauchos in the hut on the saddle – I felt terrible. It was an exrtremely fast descent the whole way home (with a spike of speed when the dogs again chased me). My strength returned quickly as my altitude decreased. Time down was approx 45. Good day out in the sun today!

Cusco Cerro 2

My second cusquena adventure was along a ridgeline to the north of the city. I paid way too much for a taxi (20 sollees) to get to a small settlement (near Cancha Deportiva De Corao on Google Maps). This place had lots of wandering alpacas, and they did not want to move.

From the settlement I followed a fairly clear gaucho trail east along the ridgeline until the summit. The day was perfect, but still was slightly aware of the typical afternoon showers that are so common as I wandered along the exposed pinnacles. Looking at the big valleys from the ridgeline was like being at the top of a huge wind blown ski slope (snow being tussock though). There was definitely a solid zephyr of wind also, but nothing that the Icebreaker couldn’t handle.

Great 360 from the summit, and only about 80mins to get there. Although my GPS was not working I think the summit height was similar to my previous climb of 4300m by looking across. I continued along the ridge after the summit, which is more rocky, until a cross at the end of the main ridge. From here I got rather lost. I followed what I thought was a significant trail down. This dropped me into a valley which I had to bush bash out of. I had taken the mindset that descending would get me there eventually (it did obviously) but being patient and climbing over to the next valley and road would have been far easy. However I forged on through milled trees, a river bed, bees’ nests and lots of thorns. Greeting me at the end of the trail that I eventually found were three dogs guarding an abandoned lot. Brilliant!! Was a heart in mouth descent for several hundred metres as they gained on me. I managed to just round a bend in time – out of sight, out of mind for the dogs. From here I met main roads and had a 6 sollee taxi back across town.

Manu

After a fortnight stint of jungle conservation in Manu National Park, with limited running, I went out for a significant three hour bush bash – or maybe I should say jungle bash. The first pic shows a view of the area (far below) we had spent time replanting and trail clearing. From this point on up the hill the trail was in serious disrepait, so at one point I had to throw in my cards and return (second pic). Lots of slippery roots, vines, spiders nests, bugs, bugs, mosquitos and bugs to make the trip eventful. Happy to say my Adidas road shoes are still hanging in there, but it is going to be a long six months for them!

Salkantay

Four friends and I opted for this epic hike to Machu Picchu called the Salkantay Trail. We tramped for three and a half days without a guide but with a whole heap of stuff (i even took 3L of yoghurt as it was on special at the supermarket!!). This was an epic few days. Do note that there is only three of us remaining in the later photos. We started at about 2 in the afternoon from Mollepata. It was hot, and layers were stripped very quickly. We were all in a fairly marginal state after a big night in Cusco so set into a rhythm and started churning out miles and admiring incredible views.

We found our first campsite as the sun started to drop. Completely by fluke (and with Gatorade for the boys) we took a well earned rest around a camp fire. Nothing like a sweaty night in sleeping bags. We stayed dry in our tent under a thatched roof.

The morning provided us with breath taking valley views and hot pork and beans. We then watched clouds rush up the values as we hurriedly packed up our gear. Unfortunately only a few days into the day we had our first two altitude sickness casualties. Luckily these guys could find a roadend. We were able to scavenge more food from them (hiking afterall is all about eating). The crew was down to three as we attacked the Salkantay Pass. Altitude made this very tough but we did meet another group (the first we had seen) in a guided trip. They had all their gear being carried by horses and were still struggling far more than us.

The descent down to campsite two was extremely wet, but we were stoked with a big day on our feet. The rain continued into day three, lots of descending. And the fourth day was huge (we opted for a high root over a jungle mountain). We had three dogs to keep us campany though, for miles and miles.

Climbing the hill on the fifth day to Machu Picchu was a difficult affair, but worth it. The clouds didnt lift until mid morning to reveal incredible landscapes. My best memory from these five days were definitely the trek though – incredible solitude and great group.

Laguna 69

I managed to pick up a bug just prior to my bus trip north to Huaraz from Lima. I was a real mess so had to lay low for a few days in the incredible Albergue Churup Hostel (highly recommended). I was able to sit at their buffet breakfast for three hours each morning and really reenergise after a big jungle stint and my mystery flu.

All this pent up energy exploded on the third day when I had had enough and caught the bus with my sneakers to attempt a run up Nevado Pisco via Laguna 69. What a day this was going to pan out to be! The mountain views were incredible on the way there and flew up the trail to a height of well over 4000m in 60mins or so. It was very stunning.

I stopped for a quick snack to admire the beauty of the lake. I then made a first mistake – I intended to follow the cairns to the refugio one valley over, however I picked up on the wrong set of Cairns. From here I climbed rapidly, far too rapidly I found out about two hours later. This two hours involved rock climbing at an intensity level that I had never had before – 5000m altitude, no ropes, and big drops –  I even have a goodbye world video that was recorded by a particurlarly nasty leap. However, after the two hours brought me to an incredible pinnacle for lunch. Here I finally realised my initial wrong cairns error – I was 1000m above the refugio!! eek

I did feel that I had spotted a short cut down though. It turned out this was over a glacier though – jumping crevasses is not something I would rush to repeat.

The rock face below that I had to descend after the glacier episode would not even prove to be my last hurdle. I had time to get lost one more time. I had a bit of a godsend when I met the first person of the day, who pointed me in the right direction.

The 1000m vertical descent back down to the carpark from the refugio turned not only my legs to jelly but my head – it had been the scariest day of my life without a doubt and a bit of a wake up. But man were the hills awesome, and the sight of this comby in the carpark (after 8 hours of running I had missed my bus home by hours)!

Santa Cruz

Although it had onnly taken 3 hours to the summit I was in a rush and really pushed the rocky descent as it started to hail. This is such an awesome trail to push it hard and only attempt to catch a rhythm. I began to run through campsites filled with tents, but everyone was indoors due to the rain. (I was keen to find a friend who I had met two days previously in a bus and had jokingly asked me to bring him in avocados – naturally I did carry two in with me! but never found him unfortunately).

The legs held together well on what was to be the longest ran I had ever done. However in the picture below you see sand. Probably only three km worth. But this was the end of me. Luckily it was only 15km short of the finish as it was a very long way home. Nothing that the 2013 Avicii Tomorrowland Set couldn’t solve though. This cured me momentarily, while some sugar got me through the last section to finish in just over six hours. Good day and I am very happy to have backed this up so soon after Laguna 69.

Update on the shoes – they are wishing they were cruising on the tarseal! Also of note was very 35600 high score in the iPhone application 2048 on the bus home #chuffed

Cataracta Gocta

Although I visited the tourism office in downtown Chachapoyas, I never had any intention of taking a guided tour to this waterfall – the fifth highest in the world. A map was always going to help though.

I fell asleep in a public minivan on the way out to the trail turnoff (arrived on my bus at 3am this morning so manged three hours sleep before my days started). Luckily I woke up only one corner past where i needed to stop, else it could have been a real battle retracing my steps.

I started a gentle jog up the 5k steady climb to the trailhead. Eventually I got lucky and hitchhiked in a massive lorry (see below with waterfront in the background). Was only marginally faster than me running, but saved my legs.

It was a wide, but muddy, undulating trail into the falls (about 5km in 45min). They were awesome though. Very few people, so no pressure when viewing this extraordinary natural feature.

I managed a chilly dip in the windy underbelly of the fall (the man after me actually skinny dipped and I wish I had). Found a nice viewpoint to sit and enjoy the atmosphere and eat my avocado sammies before the wander home. Managed to hitchhike back to town for free again!

Gran Vilaya

Several people had told me this was not for one day, but I had managed to piece together a bit of a scribbled map and a timeframe (it was going be tight making the final bus to town at 5pm even if I was Kilian).

I left at 3am to head to the Valle Berlin. The bus was a 30 seater. It was not designed for the jungle road I was about to experience.

Cajas

Salento

Jardin

Bogota Hill

My good friend Gabriel took me for a local’s only tour up a hill behind Calle 87 in Bogota. We got lucky and not only had views of teh sun riising over the sprawling Bogota metropolis, but could see both volcanoes in the distance –  apparently a rare sight. The wind was a howling at the peak, and chilly. But we were alive and I was happy that my legs were holding together only ten days after the Chicmocha Run. The climb took only about 45minutes up, but due to the technical nature, not much faster back down. It was interesting to find out that the tracks we were using had been used by guerillas only a decade before. Calm as now though luckily.

Cerro Kennedy

Firstly, I could not recommend the hostel that I staying in the jungle above Minca (Norther Colombia) more. Slightly difficult to get to, but Casa Elemento is the ideal place to go and chill out and eat incredible food.

Residents of the hostel had mentioned about the hike up Cerro Kennedy in the lower Sierra Nevadas. The views were meant to be spectacualar, with glimpses of both 5000m snowy peaks and the sea far below.

I simply climbed at the wrong time of the day. I found out later from locals that the clouds generally only lift before 7am and after 5pm. After 3 hours of climbing I arrived that the barracks at the end of the road just after lunch.

I tried to scurry back down quickly through the three different vegetative levels – the jungle got denser and denser. My legs reduced me to a walk, and it actually took longer to descend (I still made the second half of Colombia’s winning performance against Uruguay in the world cup though which was awesome!). Oh and I got my name on the records wall in the hostel – easy to do when it had not been raced before.

Tayrona

An aside

Had to get to Bucaramanga for paraglding. No buses available due to Colombian holiday. Begged a bus driver. Got a ride -> 10 hours in the baggage compartment! Got there though, and the bus’s engine and exhaust fumes made it a nice warm treat.

Cerro Provincia

Running around the city yesterday I had chased down a speedy guy. After a 2 hour city lap with him he told me about the gem called Cerro Provinicia (http://www.wikiexplora.com/index.php/Cerro_Provincia). He had only hiked it, but after her said it was technical, I was sold.

After a maze of public transport from my hostel (and leaving my food and water in the metro) I set off from the base of the hill at 11am (have not really sorted my early departures yet, even with these shorter winter days in the South).

After just under an hour of steady passed uphill of 6km I arrived at Alto del Naranjo. This was my first glimpse at how awesome these Andes are once you have broken through Santiago’s smog. My new Santiago friend wanted loads of photos but also kindly gave me loads of chocolate. This was panning out to be one of those euphoria days, where you sail on endorphins amongst the most beautiful of landscapes.

It took another hour and a half to make the summit where the views to both the skifields and over Santiago’s fog were amazing. The last 1500m were all on a snowy ridge, with some pretty serious falls. The shoes (see below the state they are now in) were not designed for this type of surface at all. A great TED Talk by Morgan Spurlock was one of the man that made this a very enjoyable afternoon.

The shoes just held together down several sections like the one shown below. Have just bought some glue so that I can offer them some necessary repairs. Fingers crossed they can make it through Bolivia! 90mins to descend and one minute more and I don’t think that I would have made the bathrooms in time.